![]() Purpose of my repair: To fix a $2600 problem for under 30 bucks. Problem: The back window is begining to "peel" from the vinyl and is showing tears along the top of the back window. I'll try to explain as best I can on how to do it yourself.ĭave-O's inexpensive way to fix a super-expensive top 8) Sorry I dont have any of like, installation and those types of things, but these are pics of what the finished product looks like. But I can fix your problem for under 30 bucks, give me about an hour or 2 and i'll have a full explanation and pics up :mrgreen:Īlrighty then, here's the pics. There hasn't been a high demand for aftermarket tops. Ya, over 2k because no one in the US makes a aftermarket top for it yet because it's such a low production vehicle, only around 5k of each year. It will take you only about an hour or so, and it will save you $2,600. Give me about an hour, I have to go pick something up and then i'll take take pictures of how to fix your convertible. pulling it up and down, the worse it will get, quick. I dont know how bad your "lifting" is, but believe me, it will get bad, the more you use the convertible, i.e. It's worth about 14, but the reason the price dropped so much, is the convertible was peeling on the back window off the vinyl. That exact situation has happend to me, that's why I was able to buy my MR2 in mint condition for 10.7k. Hey hey hey, your talking to the master here when it comes to the problem you're explaining. (Searched here, not on IMDB, as I doubt either Alfred Hitchcock or Jimmy Stewart would be much help on this topic. Any other ideas on repair, or is this one that I'll have to take to the dealer? Since my Spyder is a 2000, I'm well past any warranty coverage. I first noticed it about a week ago, and the gap seems to be getting larger daily.Įarlier posts on this topic centered around a warranty replacement of the top. In addition, the problem seems to be getting worse relatively rapidly. The problem is bad enough that I can see daylight between the edge of the window and the top as I raise the top to button up the car. The top isn't ripping it's the glue line that's failing. To paraphrase someone in an earlier thread, it looks like the window is too heavy for the adhesive and is pulling away from the top. In my case, the adhesive seems to be failing, and the glass window is starting to pull away from the top. If you'll look, the window seems to be glued to the soft top from the inside. The rear window is pulling away from the soft top, starting at the upper right (passenger) corner of the window. PROTECTOR, ROOF SIDE GARNISH, NO.This topic hasn't surfaced in about a year, and now the problem is happening to me. PROTECTOR, ROOF LOCK BASE, REAR RH 63273‑17060 WEATHERSTRIP, REMOVABLE ROOF, REAR 63252‑17040 WEATHERSTRIP, REMOVABLE ROOF, FRONT 63251‑17030 ![]() LOCK SUB-ASSY, REMOVABLE ROOF, LH 63203‑17041 ![]() LOCK SUB-ASSY, REMOVABLE ROOF, RH 63203‑17041 ![]() RETAINER, REMOVABLE ROOF WEATHERSTRIP, REAR LH 62378‑17030 RETAINER, REMOVABLE ROOF WEATHERSTRIP, REAR RH 62377‑17030 RETAINER, REMOVABLE ROOF WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT LH 62366‑17030 RETAINER, REMOVABLE ROOF WEATHERSTRIP, FRONT RH 62365‑17030 RETAINER, ROOF SIDE RAIL WEATHERSTRIP, CENTER LH 62364‑17040 RETAINER, ROOF SIDE RAIL WEATHERSTRIP, CENTER RH 62363‑17040 WEATHERSTRIP, SIDE WINDOW, LH 62262‑17010 WEATHERSTRIP, SIDE WINDOW, RH 62252‑17010 I believe the parts labeled STD Part are just regular bolts? I've assembled all the part numbers I have been able to find for the OEM hard top including fitting kit, Wall Mount, and Cover/Bag.
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